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Troitsko Pechorsk

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

Troitsko-Pechorsk sits on the upper Pechora River, which here is a clear, strong stream, with gravel banks and forested hills on both sides, and it is the gateway to the largest stretch of primeval forest in Europe. The Virgin Komi Forests, protected in the Yugyd Va National Park and the Pechora-Ilych Reserve, cover an area bigger than many countries, and in 1995 they became the first natural site in Russia to be placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. They include spruce, fir, larch and birch taiga, mountain tundra, bogs and a chain of the northern Ural peaks, including Mount Narodnaya, the highest in the Urals at around 1,895 metres.

The town is small, with about eight thousand people, a scatter of wooden houses and Soviet blocks, and a long street along the river. It exists mostly as a service centre for the surrounding district, with a sawmill, a few shops and a local museum devoted to the region, and it has the feel of a place at the edge of the settled world. The name joins the Trinity to the river. Beyond it, the roads get quieter, and the next sizeable town is a long way off.

For a rider, it is a long way from anywhere, and that is the point. The road from Syktyvkar is long, and the surface varies, with some good modern stretches and some rough ones. The forest closes in on both sides, and for hours you may see only timber trucks. Further east, the roads turn to gravel and dirt, and conditions change quickly after rain, so a dual-sport bike and a patient mind are the right tools. In summer, mosquitoes and midges are severe, and a head net is worth packing. Weather can turn cold and wet at any time, and snow falls early in autumn. The best season is late June to early September.

Practicalities matter here. There are petrol stations in town, but supplies thin out fast beyond it, so fill up and carry some extra if you plan to go further. Shops stock basics, and there are guest houses and a simple hotel. If you want to visit the national park, you will need to arrange permits and advice from the park offices.

Walk to the river in the evening, and look upstream. The water comes from mountains you cannot see, through forest no one has cut.

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