The northern frontier of Roman Dacia ran through the hills of Sălaj county, near Zalău, and Treznea is one of the places where its watchtowers, ramparts and forts left traces. The Frontiers of the Roman Empire, Dacia, were listed as a World Heritage Site in 2024, covering hundreds of sites across Romania. Nearby, on a ridge above the valley, Porolissum was the largest Roman town and military complex on this frontier, with a reconstructed gate, an amphitheatre and walls, and it is one of the most impressive Roman sites in Romania.
Treznea itself is a small village with a tragic history. In September 1940, after northern Transylvania was transferred to Hungary, Hungarian troops killed dozens of Romanian and Jewish villagers here, and a memorial commemorates the victims. The region has a complex history of shifting borders and mixed communities, Romanian and Hungarian.
The landscape of Sălaj is a land of rolling hills, orchards and forests, between the Meseș mountains and the plain. It is quiet and rural, with villages, wooden churches and farmland, and the roads are winding and pleasant.
The riding here is gentle and enjoyable, with country roads through hills and villages, little traffic and good views. Surfaces vary, with potholes and patched sections, and horse carts and livestock are common. The road over the Meseș pass toward Cluj, the DN1F, is busier but scenic. Weather is continental, with hot summers and cold winters.
Porolissum deserves a proper stop if you have the time. The site spreads over a hilltop at Moigrad, a short ride north of Zalău, and its reconstructed stone gate, the foundations of the camp and the remains of temples, a customs post and the amphitheatre give a real sense of how large this frontier town once was. Trade with the free Dacians beyond the line passed through here, and the views from the ridge over the hills of Sălaj explain why the Romans chose it. Excavations still go on most summers, and on a quiet weekday you may have the hill almost to yourself, with only skylarks and grazing sheep for company. Zalău, eight kilometres away, is the county capital, with fuel, services and a museum displaying finds from Porolissum. Local food includes sarmale, cabbage rolls, mici, grilled sausages, and the plum brandy, țuică, offered as a welcome in every home.