Trenton does not show up on many dream lists, but the start of a river ride does not have to be pretty, and this one has more history than most. New Jersey's capital sits on the Delaware at the head of navigation, the place where the river stops being tidal and starts being a proper river, and where the falls once stopped boats from going farther. That made it a mill town, and the bridge carries a famous sign in big white letters: Trenton Makes, The World Takes. It is the old industrial pride of a city that once made pottery, wire rope and steel.
The history that matters here is December 1776. After a string of defeats, Washington's army crossed the ice-choked Delaware on Christmas night, upriver of the city, and surprised the Hessian garrison in the early morning. The victory at Trenton was small in numbers and enormous in morale. The Old Barracks, which housed soldiers in the colonial period, still stands in the city centre, and the state house with its gold dome sits close to the river.
For a rider, Trenton is a place to gather yourself. It has fuel, plenty of it, and food of every kind, including a long tradition of tomato pie, a thin crust with the cheese underneath and the sauce on top, which locals defend with some heat. The city is a knot of one-way streets and bridges, so give yourself time, and do not start out in the middle of the weekday rush. Once you leave, Route 29 follows the river north, with the canal towpath on your right, and the city falls away into bluffs and woodland within a few kilometres.
Past the edge of the built-up area the road is a pleasant, uncomplicated route, and the river widens and narrows between low hills. Expect traffic lights early on, deer at dusk, and a surface that is generally fine but patched. In October the maples along the bank turn, and the whole valley glows copper and red, which is the best season for this ride. Winter brings salt and sand on the road, so check the weather.
The route continues toward Washington Crossing, Lambertville and the small river towns beyond. Trenton is the start line. Buy your coffee, check your tyres, and go.