Trento is the real beginning of the Dolomites, even though the famous peaks are still a good way north. The city lies in the Adige valley, ringed by steep mountains that rise abruptly from the valley floor, and the light that falls on its walls is distinctly alpine, while the cooking and the architecture have a southern ease. It is a university city with about eighty thousand people, and the cafés on its piazzas are full of students and cyclists.
The city is best known for the Council of Trent, held between 1545 and 1563 in response to the Reformation and one of the most important church councils in history. Its decisions shaped Catholic practice for centuries, and the cathedral and the nearby churches still bear its mark. In the centre, the Piazza Duomo has a fountain of Neptune and frescoed houses, and the Castello del Buonconsiglio, once the residence of the prince-bishops, stands at the edge of the old town with its towers and painted halls. The modern MUSE science museum, designed by Renzo Piano, adds a contemporary note beside the river.
As a food stop, Trento rewards a little attention. The cuisine of the Trentino is a meeting of Italian and Austrian traditions. Canederli, bread dumplings often served in broth or with melted butter, appear on many menus, along with polenta, speck and cheeses from mountain dairies. Apple strudel is a regional pride, and the local wines include Teroldego, a deep red from the nearby Rotaliana plain, and sparkling Trentodoc, made in the traditional method on the slopes above the city.
For a rider, the city is an urban pause between road sections, with the Adige valley road carrying fast traffic and the mountain passes beginning to the east and west. Fuel is plentiful, with stations on the approach roads and ring road, and there is parking for motorcycles in several areas near the centre. Zones of limited traffic apply in the old town, so leave the bike outside and walk in.
The weather is usually warm and bright in summer, with mountains standing sharply on both sides, and in autumn, fog can lie along the river in the morning. Evening is lively, with aperitivo hour spilling onto the squares, and a spritz or a glass of Trentodoc is a good way to mark the end of a long day.