Trebinje is the southernmost city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and it feels more Mediterranean than almost anywhere else in the country. It lies in a wide valley of the Trebišnjica river, a river that for much of its course runs underground in the karst, and the hills around it are scented with sage, pomegranate and fig. The climate is warm and dry, summer evenings stretch on, and the old town centre is a pleasure to walk, with plane trees, cafés in the squares and a small Ottoman-era quarter.
The symbol of the town is the Arslanagić Bridge, an Ottoman stone bridge with its curved arches. It was moved stone by stone in the 1960s when a reservoir was built downstream, and it now stands in a new spot beside the river, which tells you something about how much the landscape here has been reshaped. Above the town on a hill is the Hercegovačka Gračanica, a monastery church that echoes the medieval Serbian church of the same name in Kosovo, and from its terrace you see the whole valley laid out. Trebinje is also wine country. Vineyards of Vranac and Žilavka, the grape varieties of Herzegovina, cover slopes around the town.
As a base for riding, it is excellent. To the south the road crosses into Croatia toward Dubrovnik and the coast, and to the west and north you reach Stolac, Mostar and the high roads of the Herzegovina karst. These roads wind over stony passes with big views, and the asphalt is generally good on the main routes. Heat is the main issue in July and August, when midday on this stone country can be punishing, so start early and keep water on board. Border crossings can slow things down in the summer months, so allow a little extra time and carry documents and green card insurance.
Because Trebinje has more than thirty thousand inhabitants, you can expect plenty of fuel stations, restaurants and shops. It is a very sensible overnight stop. Late afternoon, when the stone turns gold and the cafés fill, is the best time to arrive, and a glass of local wine is a fair reward for the road behind you.