San Pedro del Gallo is a very small town in a very big landscape, and that is precisely its appeal. Fewer than a thousand people live here, in the high desert of northern Durango, among dry plains, low mountains and endless sky, and the town grew up as a stop on the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the royal road that linked Mexico City with the northern frontier and Santa Fe. San Pedro del Gallo is one of the places included in the UNESCO listing of the Camino Real, with its church, simple adobe houses and the quiet atmosphere of a place where time moves slowly.
The church and the old houses around the plaza are modest but authentic, built of adobe and stone to withstand heat, cold and wind. The surrounding desert is home to mesquite, creosote bush, cholla and prickly pear, and the light changes from harsh white at midday to soft gold and violet at dusk. The stars at night are spectacular, thanks to the clear dry air and the lack of light pollution.
Riding here means long distances on quiet roads, often straight, sometimes rough, with very few services. The surface can vary from good asphalt to potholed and patched sections, and loose gravel and livestock on the road are common hazards. Wind can be strong, and temperatures swing widely between day and night. Carry plenty of water, make sure someone knows your plans and avoid riding after dark.
Fuel is the main practical concern. San Pedro del Gallo itself has very limited services, and the nearest town of any size is a long way off, so fill up in a larger town such as Cuencamé, Gómez Palacio or Durango before heading out, and plan your route carefully. Small village stores may sell snacks and cold drinks, and you might find a local family serving simple meals of beans, tortillas and meat.
Come in the cooler months, from October to April, when days are warm and nights cold. Summers can be very hot, and storms in the rainy season can flood roads and tracks. Sit on a bench in the plaza in the evening, listen to the silence broken only by a dog barking or a radio playing, and you will feel how far the royal road reached into the empty north.