Aculco is a quiet stone town in the northwest of the State of Mexico, on the high plateau at well over two thousand metres, where the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the colonial road to the north, passed through on its way from Mexico City. The town was a staging post, and its well-preserved centre, with a broad plaza, the Franciscan church and convent of San Jerónimo and old houses built of pinkish stone, is part of the UNESCO listing for the route. It was here, in November 1810, that royalist troops defeated Miguel Hidalgo's insurgent army, an early setback in the War of Independence that people still mention with a kind of local pride.
The region is home to Otomí communities, known in their own language as Ñähñu, and their crafts and traditions are woven into daily life. The countryside is a mix of pasture, cornfields and oak forest, and Aculco is known for its dairy farms, producing cheeses, cream and cajeta sold in shops around the plaza. Just outside town, the Tixhiñú waterfall drops over a curtain of basalt columns, and the Peña de Ñadó, a huge rock outcrop, attracts climbers and hikers.
The riding is a pleasure: winding roads across the high plateau, with views of volcanic hills and farmland, and very little traffic once you leave the main highway between Mexico City and Querétaro. The air is cool, even cold in the mornings, so dress in layers. Watch for topes, livestock and potholes, especially after the rainy season. The best months are from October to April, when the skies are clear and blue.
Aculco is a small town, and while you may find a fuel station on its outskirts, the nearest larger town is Acambay, about sixteen kilometres away, with more services. Plan your fuel stops carefully if you are heading deeper into the hills. In town, eat at the market or in one of the small restaurants around the plaza, where you can try barbacoa, slow-cooked lamb, or quesadillas made with the local cheese, followed by a sweet from one of the dairy shops.