Rome built a road through Spain, and this tower stands beside what was left of it. The Torre dels Escipions, the Tower of the Scipios, is a tall, square funerary monument, about nine metres high in its present state, on the old line of the Via Augusta a few kilometres from Tarragona. It was built in the first century AD, and for a long time people thought it was the tomb of the Scipio brothers, the Roman generals who died fighting the Carthaginians in Spain around 211 BC. That story is almost certainly false, but the name stuck.
On its faces you can still make out three carved figures, which most scholars read as the god Attis, a young man in Eastern dress associated with death and rebirth. They are worn and weathered, and a pair of inscriptions has long since vanished. The tower stands alone in a field beside a quiet road, which gives it an odd dignity, and it is part of the archaeological ensemble of Tarraco that UNESCO listed in 2000.
The region label mentions the Cova del Taller, a nearby cave, and the area is rich in ancient remains. Tarraco was the capital of Roman Hispania Citerior, and the city's amphitheatre, circus and walls are among the best in Spain. A short ride south you reach Altafulla and its medieval centre, and a few kilometres on the Arc de Berà, a Roman triumphal arch that still straddles the old road.
The ride is easy and pleasant rather than thrilling. Minor roads run between vineyards and pines, with some gentle curves, and the old N-340 follows the Via Augusta along the coast. Traffic can be heavy, particularly in summer, so choose early morning or late afternoon. Spring and autumn offer the softest light.
Tarragona is the place for fuel and food, a city of 140,000 people only six kilometres away, with a big port and a good seafood tradition. Altafulla also has pumps and restaurants. Bring a camera, and a hat for summer, since there is little shade at the tower.