Tortolì is the market town of the Ogliastra, the wild and thinly populated stretch of Sardinia's eastern coast, and it has the practical air of a place that works for a living. About eight thousand people live here, with the port of Arbatax a few kilometres away, where the red porphyry rocks drop into the sea in a dramatic cluster. Ferries to the mainland leave from Arbatax, and the paper mill and port gave the district some employment. For riders, Tortolì is a convenient end to the long SS125 Orientale Sarda, with fuel, shops, cafes and a flat, easy lie.
The SS125 is Sardinia's great motorcycle road, a long, well-surfaced highway that runs the length of the east side, climbing through mountains and dropping toward the sea. Near Tortolì, the landscape is a mix of Mediterranean scrub, cork oak and granite outcrops, with the sharp limestone peaks of the Supramonte inland. The curves are broad and fast on some stretches and tight on others, and there are plenty of lorries and local drivers who know every bend. Wind can be strong, and summer brings serious heat, so early starts are best.
Sardinia has a distinct culture. The island's interior kept a pastoral tradition for centuries, and its people speak Sardinian, a language closer to Latin than Italian. The ancient nuraghi, stone towers built by a Bronze Age civilisation, are scattered across the landscape, and Sardinians are known for longevity; the central mountains are one of the so-called Blue Zones. The cuisine reflects the contrast between mountain and sea, with roast suckling pig, pecorino cheese and carasau, the thin crisp bread, alongside bottarga and fresh fish.
Practical details are favourable. Tortolì and Arbatax have pumps, banks and many places to eat, and a short ride gets you to the beaches below, such as the cove at Cala Moresca. Water on this coast is clear, and the rocks at Arbatax glow red at sunset. The best seasons are May, June and September, when the coast is warm and not too crowded. Autumn rain can be heavy, but the mountains are quiet then, and the roads are almost empty.