Torres del Paine is the sort of landscape that makes riders slow down on purpose. The park lies in Chilean Patagonia, a few hours north of Puerto Natales, and its signature is a group of granite towers rising straight out of the steppe, with dark horns of rock called the Cuernos beside them and turquoise lakes at their feet. The park was created in 1959 and is now a UNESCO biosphere reserve, and it draws walkers from all over the world to its long trails, though there is plenty to see from the saddle.
The road in from Puerto Natales is a long, quiet ride through open country. The first part is paved, with long straights across rolling grassland and views of far-off ridges. Closer to the park, it turns to gravel, wide but corrugated, with stones that can be loose at the edges, so give yourself time. Wind is the dominant factor, and it can be ferocious. Gusts of a hundred kilometres an hour are not unusual, and a loaded bike can be pushed across the road without warning. Summer, from November to March, is the practical window, with long daylight, and a calm day here is a gift.
At the gate you will normally need to register, show your passport and pay an entrance fee, and conditions and prices change, so check before you go. Basic food and drinks are available at lodges and a few kiosks, though they are pricey and sometimes closed out of season. Weather is changeable to the point of comedy, with sun, rain, hail and rainbows within an hour, so waterproofs and layers are a must.
The wildlife is another reason to ride slowly. Guanacos, the wild relatives of the llama, graze beside the road and often leap the fences in graceful bounds, while rheas, known locally as ñandú, run across the steppe and condors circle on the thermals. If you are very lucky, you might glimpse a puma, which is more common here than anywhere else in South America, though it is shy. Take a moment at one of the viewpoints on the lake shore, switch off the engine and listen to the wind in the grass. It is a place that seems to be made on a different scale.