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Torra Bay (area -20.5,13.2)

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

Torra Bay is a name on a map, a dot on the Skeleton Coast of Namibia, and a place you need a plan to reach. It lies on the stretch of Atlantic shore where the cold Benguela Current meets the desert, and the sea's chill produces thick fog that rolls in most mornings and burns away by noon, giving the coast an eerie, silvery look. Sailors named it the Skeleton Coast for the shipwrecks and the bones of whales and seals scattered on the sand, and in the early days, ships that ran aground rarely saw rescue.

The bay itself is a campsite and fishing spot inside the Skeleton Coast National Park, and it is open only in the summer holiday season, from December to January, when anglers arrive to catch kob and steenbras from the surf. For the rest of the year it is closed, and the shore is empty. Permits are needed to enter the park, and they must be bought in advance, with fixed entry and exit gates, so check the regulations. The coastal road is a salt road, firm when damp, with sand drifts and the occasional soft patch, and it is wise to ride with others.

The landscape is stark and beautiful. To the east, the Namib desert rises in gravel plains and distant dunes, and on the shore, colonies of Cape fur seals bark and jostle, while jackals and brown hyenas patrol the tideline at night. Gemsbok, springbok and even desert-adapted elephants can be found in the dry riverbeds to the north. The silence is deep and the horizon is huge, and the feeling of being on the edge of the world is no exaggeration.

Fuel is the main concern. There are no reliable stations at the bay, and the nearest towns, such as Henties Bay to the south and Khorixas or Uis inland, are long distances away, so fill every tank and carry spare fuel, along with plenty of water, food and a tow strap. Carry a satellite messenger if you can, since phone coverage is almost non-existent, and tell someone your plans. The cool foggy mornings give way to bright afternoons, so bring layers.

Read it in a ride

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