Torquay is where the Great Ocean Road really begins, even though the famous arch and the signage are a little further down the coast. This is surf town in the proper sense: Bells Beach is a few minutes away, the Easter surf contest there is one of the oldest in the world, and brands like Rip Curl and Quiksilver grew out of garages and sheds in this exact patch of Victoria. With around thirteen thousand residents it is a proper town, not a village, so fuel, coffee, bakeries and a good supply of wetsuit shops are all right here.
For a rider, the coast road from Torquay to Anglesea is the start of something good rather than the good bit itself. The surface is generally excellent, the corners flow with the dunes and heathland, and the sea shows up and disappears behind coastal scrub in a way that keeps your head turning. Further on, past Aireys Inlet and its lighthouse, the road begins to cling to the cliffs and the traffic begins to compete with the view. Victorian speed limits are enforced firmly and the cameras on busy holiday weekends are not shy, so treat the signed limits as real.
The road itself carries a bit of history. Returned soldiers from the First World War built much of it by hand between 1919 and 1932 as a memorial to those killed, and the arch at Eastern View still carries that spirit. Knowing that makes the unhurried pace slightly easier to accept, especially behind a caravan.
Weather here is the Southern Ocean's business. A warm morning can turn into a cold southwesterly by lunch, and a gusty crosswind on the exposed sections is normal, so wear layers you can adjust. Early starts beat the crowds, and the light on the cliffs around sunrise is lovely. Geelong is about twenty minutes up the road if you need a bigger town, but for most riders Torquay is the place to top the tank, eat something decent and take a look at the surf before pointing the bike south-west.