Torotoro is one of those places where the road ends and the real attraction begins. The national park lies in the highlands south-east of Cochabamba, in a landscape of red cliffs, narrow canyons and cave systems carved into folded limestone and sandstone, and the village, a small, quiet place with a plaza and a handful of guesthouses, sits at its edge. There is no larger town close by, so everything you need has to come with you or be found in the village.
What draws people here is time. The rocks hold tracks left by dinosaurs, including large, clearly visible footprints on sloping slabs that were once the muddy shore of an ancient sea, and fossils appear in the cliffs. A guide will take you to see them, as well as the Umajalanta cave, where a short guided walk goes into a cool chamber with underground streams and strange formations. The canyon of El Vergel, a deep gorge with a waterfall at the end, is among the nicest short hikes in Bolivia, and the Ciudad de Itas, a labyrinth of rock, is another stop.
The ride has changed over the years. Once a rough day-long track, parts of the road from Cochabamba have been improved, but conditions still vary and landslides or rain can make some sections difficult, so ask locally before you commit. The scenery is lovely: terraced hillsides, small farms, eucalyptus, dry river valleys, and then, as you climb, a wide view over the folded ranges. Go in the dry season, from about May to October, for better surfaces and clear skies, and aim to arrive before dark, because night riding here is not wise.
Fuel is the main thing to plan. Basic meals and simple rooms are available in the village, often at family-run places, and the nights can be cold. Bring cash, since there are few ways to pay by card. The stars at night, far from any city lights, make it worth staying overnight.