The Beartooth Highway climbs out of the plains of Montana into a world of rock, snow and alpine lakes, and it has a reputation to match. The journalist Charles Kuralt called it the most beautiful drive in America, and plenty of riders agree. US 212 crosses the Beartooth Plateau at nearly 3,340 metres, one of the highest highways in the northern Rockies, and its twists and switchbacks carry you from pine forest to bare tundra in the space of a few kilometres. The road was finished in 1936 after years of difficult work through steep terrain.
The Top of the World store is a small, seasonal outpost near the high point of the road on the Wyoming side, and its position, surrounded by lakes and peaks, gives it the feel of a mountain hut. Services here are basic. Expect a few supplies, snacks and drinks when it is open, which depends on the season and the snow, and do not plan on anything more. In this country, the road itself is open only for part of the year, usually from late spring to mid-autumn, and sudden snowstorms can close it even in summer, so check conditions before you ride.
The scenery is hard to overstate. Granite peaks rise on every side, including Granite Peak, the highest point in Montana at over 3,900 metres, and glacial lakes lie in the hollows like dropped coins. Wildflowers bloom in the alpine meadows in July, and mountain goats and marmots live among the rocks. The air is thin and clear, and the light has a hard, bright quality that makes colours sharper. Weather can change in minutes, and temperatures at the top can be near freezing in any month, so bring warm layers, gloves and a waterproof jacket.
Riding here is exhilarating. The road has tight switchbacks on the Montana side, with steep drops and big views, and it eases into long, high curves across the plateau. The surface is generally good, but frost heaves and patches appear, and gravel can collect on corners. Traffic is moderate, with campers and sightseers, so be ready to follow slower vehicles.
Fuel is not guaranteed at the store. Red Lodge, about thirty kilometres away on the Montana side, and Cooke City on the other are the places to fill up, and the distance between them is considerable. Carry water and snacks, and make sure your tank is full before the climb.