Tomoka State Park sits where the Tomoka and Halifax rivers meet on the Florida coast just north of Daytona, and it is a surprise after the busy beach towns: a quiet, shaded patch of old Florida where live oaks arch over the road, hung with Spanish moss, and the tidal creeks run slow and tea-coloured through salt marsh. The air smells of brackish water and warm pine needles, and the only traffic is often a car or two and a cyclist.
The park has a long history of human use. The Timucua people lived here for centuries before the Spanish arrived, and one of their villages, Nocoroco, stood near the river. Later, Europeans established plantations, growing indigo and sugar, and the ruins of old mills and canals still lie in the woods. In the twentieth century, a local artist built a studio here and carved large sculptures that stand near the river, including a figure of a Timucua chief. The landscape is protected now, with trails for walking, a boat ramp and a campground, and canoeing the creeks is a pleasure.
The road through the park is a short, narrow lane, part of the Ormond Scenic Loop, which links the coastal and riverside roads in a ride that feels almost nothing like the rest of the Florida coast. It is shaded and winding by Florida standards, with slow bends, a surface that can be patchy and a canopy that keeps the pavement damp in the morning, so watch for slick patches, sand and fallen branches. Speed limits are low, there are cyclists and walkers, and wildlife such as alligators, deer, armadillos and many birds appear near the road, sometimes on it. The best times are autumn through spring, when it is cooler and the mosquitoes are fewer; summer is hot and humid, with violent afternoon storms.
Services in the park are modest, with a small museum and a basic picnic area, and there is an entrance fee. Ormond-by-the-Sea, about two kilometres away, and Ormond Beach, a bit further, have petrol stations, supermarkets and restaurants, so fill the tank and bring water. Insect repellent is useful in warm months.
The loop is also a link to the history of speed. Ormond Beach was one of the places where early motor racing took off on the hard-packed sand, a story told in local museums.
Stop under the oaks for a few minutes and listen. It is quieter than almost anywhere else on this coast.