The RN7 ends at Toliara, a flat, sandy, sun-struck town on the south-west coast of Madagascar, where the highlands have been left far behind and the land is dry, thorny and bright. The town, sometimes still called Tulear, has about a hundred and fifteen thousand people, and it sits on the Mozambique Channel with wide streets, dusty pavements, handcarts and the pousse-pousse rickshaws that carry people everywhere. Nights are warm, days are hot and the sea breeze is a mercy.
The people of the coast are the Vezo, who live from the sea in dugout canoes with sails, and who are known for their skill at fishing and diving. Their villages, a few hours to the north at Ifaty and Mangily, are strung along a beach behind a coral reef, one of the longest in the Indian Ocean, and the outrigger sails against the setting sun are a sight to remember. Inland from the coast lies the spiny forest, a strange landscape of tall, thorny octopus trees, baobabs and euphorbias, adapted to the dry conditions, and found only in this part of the world. The Reniala reserve near Ifaty protects a good piece of it.
The road in is the long reward. After the Isalo massif, the RN7 descends in long, hot sweeps through dry savannah, and the last stretch to Toliara is flat and straight, with sand drifting over the surface and heavy trucks. There is a lot of heat, and distances between stations are long, so carry water and spare fuel. Sand tracks lead to the beaches, which can be difficult on a loaded motorbike. The best season is the dry winter, May to October, when the temperatures are bearable.
Toliara has fuel, banks, hotels and restaurants, and it is the sensible place to rest after the journey. Fresh seafood is cheap and good, with grilled lobster, fish and octopus, and a cold local beer on a terrace by the sea is a classic way to finish the trip. Bring cash, since cards are rarely accepted. Check the bike before heading farther, since parts are hard to find.