Beneath a low grassy mound in the countryside south-west of Pyongyang lies one of the finest painted tombs of the ancient kingdom of Koguryo. Tokhung-ri was built in 408 for a high-ranking official, and its walls are covered in murals showing his life: processions, hunting scenes, officials paying respects, mythical creatures and a starry sky with the sun and moon. Unusually, it carries a long ink inscription giving the man's titles and the date, which makes it an important anchor for the history of the whole kingdom. It is part of the Complex of Koguryo Tombs inscribed by UNESCO in 2004.
Koguryo was one of the Three Kingdoms of ancient Korea, a powerful state that at its height stretched deep into what is now north-east China. Its tombs, built of stone chambers covered with earth, preserve paintings of remarkable liveliness, with flowing lines and bright colours, and they are among the most important sources for understanding life and belief in the region at the time. The countryside around is flat and agricultural, with rice paddies and villages in the plain of the Taedong river, which flows past Pyongyang to the sea at Nampo.
It needs saying plainly: independent riding here is not possible. Foreign visitors to North Korea can only travel on organised tours with official guides, and access to particular sites depends on government permission. The roads in the area are generally wide but uneven, with little traffic except for military vehicles, trucks and the occasional bicycle. If you are ever able to visit, it will be by bus or minibus as part of a tour group, and the murals themselves are often protected, with visitors shown replicas.
There are no services for independent travellers, and fuel, food and accommodation are arranged by tour operators. Nampo and Pyongyang are the nearest cities. Anyone considering a visit should consult current government travel advice, which for many countries strongly advises against all travel to North Korea, and take very seriously the legal risks involved. For most people, Tokhung-ri will remain a place to know through books and photographs.