The Todra Gorge is the moment the whole region has been building to. The river, which has been a lazy ribbon in the palm grove, enters a narrow gap in the High Atlas, and the walls rise on both sides to well over a hundred metres, almost sheer, in rust and orange limestone. At the narrowest point the gap is only a few metres wide, and the road, the river and a handful of hotels and stalls are all squeezed between the rocks.
The light is the thing to see. In the early morning or late afternoon the sun hits the upper walls and turns them a deep gold, while the base remains in shade, and the temperature in the narrows can be many degrees cooler than outside. The water, clear and cold, runs beside the road in a shallow stream, and people paddle in it on hot days. Rock climbers come here too, with hundreds of routes on the limestone, and you will often see ropes hanging from the walls.
For riders, the road is short, narrow and busy. The tarmac is good but often crowded with tourist minibuses, taxis, tour groups on foot, stalls and parked cars, and the corners are blind. Ride slowly, use the horn, and be prepared to stop. It is a place to park the bike, walk and look up, rather than a place to ride fast. If you are early, you will have it almost to yourself.
Beyond the narrows, the valley opens and the road continues up toward the village of Tamtattouchte and the high mountains. The surface becomes more broken, and the road may turn to gravel as it climbs. Nomadic Amazigh families graze their goats and sheep here in summer, and the landscape is stark, with scree slopes, juniper and small terraces. The track links up with other mountain routes, but conditions vary, so check locally before heading beyond the end of the tar.
Tinghir, about eighteen kilometres back, has fuel, shops, cash machines and restaurants. At the gorge there are cafes and small hotels with terraces, and a simple lunch of tagine and mint tea in the shade is a good way to enjoy the scenery. Carry water, wear sun protection, and be prepared for cold evenings, because the altitude brings a big temperature swing.