Tizi n'Test is the pass that makes riders go quiet, then talk about it for years. At about 2,090 metres, it crosses the High Atlas between Marrakech and the Souss plain near Taroudant, and the road, built by the French in the late 1920s and early 1930s, is a thin ribbon of tarmac cut into the mountainside, with hairpins, drops of several hundred metres, and, in places, no barrier at all. It is narrow, in sections just wide enough for two vehicles to squeeze past, and landslides and rockfall are part of life.
The charm is in the detail. South of Ouirgane, the road climbs through valleys of walnut and almond trees, then follows a series of switchbacks to the top, where a café sits beside the road, and then it drops in long, curving descents toward the arid country around Taroudant. The view back across the valleys and ridges is wonderful, and in clear weather the Atlas looks endless. Near the pass, the ruins of the Tin Mal mosque, built in the twelfth century, mark the origin of the Almohad dynasty that went on to rule Morocco and much of Spain, and it is among the few mosques in Morocco open to non-Muslim visitors.
You need to treat the pass with respect. Snow and rain can close it in winter, and even in good weather heavy lorries and tourist coaches slow the traffic, often stopping on bends, and some surfaces are rough, with gravel on the edges. Aim to cross in the morning, in dry weather, and keep to your side of the road, since oncoming vehicles tend to cut corners. Fog is possible, and darkness makes the pass far more dangerous.
There is no town near the summit, so plan your fuel properly. Fill the tank in Marrakech or Taroudant, since small villages along the route may have little or nothing, and carry water and snacks. A simple stop for mint tea, bread and olive oil at the café near the top will give you time to settle your nerves before the descent. Early spring brings wildflowers and green slopes, while autumn gives the clearest light.