Tiwai Island is a small, forested island in the Moa River in southeastern Sierra Leone, about twelve square kilometers in all, and it is run as a wildlife sanctuary by the surrounding villages. The river splits around it and makes a kind of natural refuge, with high canopy and thick undergrowth. It is one of the best places in West Africa to see primates, with eleven species recorded, including chimpanzees, Diana monkeys, red colobus and black-and-white colobus, and it also shelters the pygmy hippopotamus, a shy and rarely seen forest animal.
The island has a wealth of birds, with well over a hundred species, including hornbills and kingfishers, and nature trails and a canopy platform give good viewing points. Visitors reach the island by dugout canoe from the village of Kambama, and the crossing itself, with the forest closing in on both banks, is part of the experience. Early morning is the best time, when the monkeys are active and the river is covered with mist. Accommodation is simple, in small huts or camping, and meals are prepared by local people.
Sierra Leone has a complicated recent history. The civil war, which began in 1991 and ended in 2002, devastated much of the country, but communities around Tiwai have rebuilt and now rely on tourism and conservation. The nearby Gola Rainforest National Park, one of the largest remaining blocks of rainforest in West Africa, is a major conservation area and a good addition to a visit.
The road in is the real adventure. From Bo or Kenema, laterite roads lead through small towns such as Gorahun and Potoru, with red dust in the dry season and deep mud during the rains from about May to October. The surface can be rutted and the bridges narrow, so a sturdy bike and a relaxed schedule are essential. The dry season, from November to April, is the best time to ride, though the harmattan wind can fill the air with haze.
Fuel is available in towns such as Kenema and Bo, but stations are sparse in the countryside, and it is wise to carry extra. Food is simple, with rice and cassava leaf stew a staple. Respect local customs, ask before taking photographs, and expect a warm welcome.