Tuolumne Meadows is the largest subalpine meadow in the Sierra Nevada, a long, flat sweep of grass at 8,600 feet with the Tuolumne River winding through it and a ring of granite domes and peaks around the edge. Lembert Dome rises on one side like a bald head, and the spires of Cathedral Peak stand on the south, with snow lingering in their gullies into July. The meadow is lovely in the evening, when the alpenglow touches the peaks and the river is silver.
John Muir, who spent summers in these mountains in the 1870s and 1880s, camped here often, and the Sierra Club, which he founded in 1892, held its first outings in the meadows. Muir's campaign to protect the high country led to the creation of Yosemite National Park in 1890. The meadow was also an old trade route for the Mono Paiute, who crossed the Sierra here to trade with the people of the western slope, carrying obsidian and pinon nuts.
For a rider, the stretch from Tenaya Lake to the meadow is a joy. The road is open and smooth, with long, easy bends and views across the meadow, and the air is cool and fresh. Traffic is steady in summer, but the road is wide enough that you can find space. Watch for deer, which graze near the road at dusk, and for cyclists. A few corners have gravel, especially in early summer after snowplough operations, so take care.
Tuolumne has a store, a grill and a visitor centre, along with a campground and a lodge with tent cabins that book out early. Fuel has traditionally been sold at a seasonal station here during summer, though availability changes from year to year, so fill up at Crane Flat or Lee Vining if you are unsure. The snow melts late, and the road may not open until June. The meadows are at their best from July to September, when wildflowers bloom.
The weather at this altitude is changeable, with sudden afternoon thunderstorms that can bring hail and lightning. If you hear thunder, get off exposed areas. Nights are cold, and frost is possible even in August. Mosquitoes can be a nuisance in early summer, especially near the water. Bring insect repellent and a warm sleeping bag if you plan to camp.
Walk out onto the meadow at dusk and listen. The silence is deep, broken only by the river.