Tijuca Forest sits in the middle of Rio de Janeiro, a mass of green hills that rises right out of the dense city and holds the Christ the Redeemer statue on its peak. It is one of the largest urban forests in the world, and the astonishing thing is that it is not original. In the nineteenth century, coffee plantations and logging stripped these slopes, and the springs that supplied the city began to dry up. In 1861, Emperor Pedro II ordered the land to be replanted, and a major named Manuel Gomes Archer led a team of enslaved labourers who planted tens of thousands of saplings, an early and successful experiment in forest restoration.
Today the forest is a tangle of Atlantic rainforest, with waterfalls, hiking trails, viewpoints and small chapels. Toucans, marmosets, coatis and many butterflies live here, and you may hear them before seeing them. The Christ the Redeemer statue, finished in 1931, stands on Corcovado, one of the forest's peaks, about 30 metres tall on top of an 8 metre base, and it can be reached by a cog railway or through the forest roads.
The roads here are a great diversion for riders who like twisting climbs. Narrow, shady lanes wind up through the trees, with sharp bends, old stone walls and occasional hairpins, and some surfaces are cobbled or patched. Mist and sudden rain are common, and slippery leaves lie on the tarmac. Weekends bring cyclists and families, so go on a weekday morning. The temperature in the forest is a few degrees cooler than in the city. Stick to main roads and busy areas, and be aware that, as in any big city, petty crime does occur at some quiet viewpoints, so do not leave the bike unattended with valuables.
Rio de Janeiro has fuel stations throughout, workshops and every kind of lodging. Several cafes sit at the entrances of the park. Try a fresh coconut water from a kiosk and a plate of feijoada, the black bean and pork stew traditionally served on Saturdays. Bring a rain jacket, because the forest creates its own weather.