It is a sprawling, energetic place, built across hills and canyons, with a reputation that does not match its character. It has an excellent food scene, a lively craft beer culture and a large community of artists.
The Baja California Highway 1 ride starts here, and it is a great road. South of Tijuana, the toll road to Ensenada runs along the coast, with views of the Pacific, and the free road runs inland through wine country at Valle de Guadalupe. Beyond Ensenada, the highway climbs into desert mountains, with boulders, cactus and wide valleys, running for hundreds of kilometres to Catavina, with few towns on the way. The surface is mixed, with good stretches and potholes, and animals, including cattle, can wander onto the road. Avoid riding at night, when hazards are hard to see.
The paperwork is simple but important. Mexican liability insurance is required by law, and a US policy does not cover you. Riders should carry a passport, and a tourist permit is needed if you plan to go beyond a border zone, which is arranged at an immigration office. A temporary vehicle import permit is not needed on the Baja peninsula, unless you take the ferry to the mainland. The Caesar salad is said to have been invented here, in a restaurant on Avenida Revolución, in 1924, and tacos, especially birria and al pastor, are everywhere.
Fuel is available in Tijuana at Pemex stations, the national chain, and the key rule on the peninsula is to fill up whenever you see one, since stations in the desert can be far apart, and occasionally run dry. Carry a spare container, cash in pesos and water.
Eat a few tacos before you leave. The city sets the tone for the whole journey, which is lively, warm and generous.