The Someș river makes its way through the hills of north-western Romania between Cluj and Baia Mare, and near the small town of Jibou, in Sălaj county, it passes through a narrow valley guarded on its slopes by the remains of a Roman fort. The site, known locally as Grădiște, which simply means old fort, lies above the village of Tihău, close to Surduc and Gâlgău Almașului.
The Romans conquered Dacia in the early second century under Trajan and held it for about a hundred and seventy years. The north-western frontier of the province ran through these hills, and the line of forts, watchtowers and walls along it is now part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire, Dacian Limes, a UNESCO site inscribed in 2024. The fort at Tihău guarded the Someș valley, a natural route into the province. What remains is mostly earthworks and foundations, but the setting, with the river below and the hills around, makes the military logic clear.
Jibou is known for its botanical garden, one of the largest in Romania, laid out around the Wesselényi castle, a Baroque palace built by a Hungarian noble family. The Sălaj region has a strong mixed heritage, with Romanian and Hungarian communities and wooden churches in many villages, some of them centuries old.
The riding in this part of Transylvania is relaxed and rural. The roads along the Someș valley and over the hills toward Zalău, Dej and Baia Mare are generally decent, with gentle curves through farmland, orchards and forest. Smaller roads can be potholed and narrow, and horse-drawn carts are still common, as are dogs. Romania requires a vignette, the rovinieta, for cars on national roads, but motorcycles are exempt. The Maramureș, north of Baia Mare, with its famous wooden churches and traditional villages, is within reach for a day ride.
Jibou, about six kilometres away, has fuel, shops and food. Local cuisine is hearty: sarmale, cabbage rolls; ciorbă, sour soup; and the plum brandy, pălincă, offered with pride. Late spring and early autumn are the best seasons, with mild weather and green hills.