Dealul Cucului means cuckoo hill, and the name fits the place: a low, wooded rise above the village of Tihău, close to the town of Jibou in the Someș valley of Sălaj county, where in spring the cuckoo's call echoes across the meadows. The point belongs to the network of archaeological sites along the Roman frontier of Dacia in the northwest of the province, near the confluence of the Almaș and Someș rivers, a strategic spot where valleys meet and roads cross. As with many of these sites, there may be little to see on the surface, but the location makes sense once you look at the map.
Jibou, six kilometres away, is a small town with a big surprise: the Wesselényi castle, a baroque palace of a Hungarian noble family, now home to one of the largest botanical gardens in Romania, with greenhouses, Japanese gardens and collections of plants from around the world. It is an unexpectedly elegant place for a walk after a ride through the countryside. The town also has a railway junction and a few shops and cafés around the centre.
The riding around Tihău is relaxed and rural. The roads follow the river valleys, with gentle curves, small villages and fields of maize and sunflowers. Side roads lead into the hills, toward Gâlgău Almașului and Creaca, where the tarmac often gives way to gravel and dirt, and the landscape becomes more wooded and remote. Watch for horse-drawn carts, which are still common here, and for cattle and sheep being moved along the roads in the evening. Summers can be hot and thunderstorms frequent, while autumn brings mild weather and colourful forests.
Jibou has fuel, supermarkets and simple restaurants, and it is the best base for exploring the area. Zalău, the county capital, is about thirty kilometres away and has more services, as well as a county museum with finds from Porolissum, the great Roman city on the frontier. Local food is hearty: sour soups called ciorbă, sarmale, cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice, and polenta with cheese and sour cream. Accept the hospitality, and you will find the people of Sălaj warm and curious.