Tihany is a peninsula that pokes into Lake Balaton like a thumb, a hilly, volcanic outcrop in the middle of the largest lake in central Europe, and it narrows the lake almost to a strait. From the top, the water spreads out on both sides, with the vineyards of the north shore on one side and the low southern shore on the other, and on clear evenings the light on the water is unforgettable. The village sits on the ridge, a neat place of white houses and thatched roofs, with a Benedictine abbey at its heart.
The abbey was founded in 1055 by King Andrew I, and the deed of foundation, which survives, contains the oldest known text in the Hungarian language, a few words in a Latin document, so the place has a special status for Hungarians. The present church is baroque, with a pair of towers visible from across the lake, and the interior is richly decorated. Behind it, a path leads to a viewpoint over the water, and nearby are the remains of old hermit cells carved into the volcanic rock.
The peninsula is also a protected landscape, with odd cone-shaped geyser formations, an echo that bounces off the abbey walls, and a lavender-growing tradition that has made the plant a symbol of Tihany. In summer, lavender fields turn the slopes purple, and the shops sell lavender oil, soap and honey. The lake itself has a small ferry between Tihany and the south shore, a short crossing that gives a fine view of the peninsula from the water.
The roads on the peninsula are narrow and winding, with tight bends and short climbs, and in summer they are crowded with visitors, so allow plenty of time, and be careful of pedestrians. The best times to ride are in early morning or in the evening, when the light is soft and the day-trippers have gone. Tihany is small, with about fourteen hundred residents, and fuel is limited, so fill up in Balatonfüred, about six kilometres away, a town with about thirteen thousand people, a lakeside promenade and plenty of cafés, restaurants and shops.