Thurgau has a nickname that makes it sound like another continent. Locals call it Mostindien, from Most, the cider pressed from apples and pears, and the orchards that cover the hills above Lake Constance justify the joke. In April the blossom turns whole slopes white and pink, and in September the trees hang with fruit, and the air near the farms smells sweet and slightly fermented. It is one of the best quiet-road landscapes in northern Switzerland, and few foreign riders know it.
The area around Weinfelden is the heart of it. The town sits on the Thur river, with a modest old centre and vineyards on the slope of the Ottenberg ridge, where wine grapes ripen in the sun. Between the orchards, small villages cluster around churches and half-timbered farmhouses, and local farm shops sell apples, juice, schnapps and cheese from stands beside the road, often on an honour system with a cash box. If you see one, stop. The produce is good, and buying direct is part of the experience.
The riding is easy and elegant. Roads ripple gently over the low hills, with wide bends, good surfaces and long views across the orchards toward the lake or the distant Alps. It is not a technical challenge, so the pleasure is in rhythm and scenery. Traffic is light on small roads, but tractors and fruit lorries use them in season, so keep your speed reasonable and expect slow vehicles around blind bends. Early autumn is the high point, with golden light and a faint haze, though spring blossom is hard to beat.
Weinfelden has about nine thousand people, so fuel, bakeries and cafés are all available, and smaller villages such as Märstetten and Affeltrangen have basic services. There is no need to carry spare fuel, but do carry something to drink, since the orchard roads have few cafés.
The main caution is dampness. After rain, mud from farm vehicles can coat corners, and in autumn fallen fruit creates slick patches, a hazard not mentioned in many guides. Go slowly through villages, where school and farm traffic is common. If you want a souvenir, a bottle of local cider fits neatly into a pannier, though you may prefer to drink it on arrival.