Sion is the capital of the Valais, a town of about twenty-eight thousand in the broad, sunny Rhône valley. Sion is Switzerland's driest region in many places, protected by the high Alps on both sides, and it grows grapes, apricots and asparagus in a climate that feels almost Mediterranean. Two great rocky hills rise from the town floor, each crowned by a medieval fortress.
The hill of Valère carries a fortified church that contains what is said to be the oldest playable pipe organ in the world, dating to around 1435, and in summer a festival of organ music uses it. The neighbouring hill, Tourbillon, has the ruins of a castle built as a bishop's residence in the thirteenth century and burned in 1788. A climb up to either gives a wide view of the valley, with the Rhône winding below and the glaciers at the head of the side valleys glinting in the distance.
Valais wines have a character of their own. Fendant, made from the Chasselas grape, is light and refreshing, and Cornalin and Humagne are rarer local reds. Many cellars offer tastings, and the vineyards climb in terraces up the slopes. The valley's traditional dish is raclette, melted cheese scraped over potatoes, and it tastes best after a day in the mountains.
For riders, Sion is a base for excellent passes. The road to Col du Sanetsch, a narrow dead-end road above Savièse, climbs to a high lake and a glacier view, and the Grand Saint-Bernard, the Simplon and the Nufenen are all within reach. The Val d'Hérens, east of town, is known for the earth pyramids of Euseigne, strange columns of moraine capped by boulders, and for the Hérens cattle, small black cows that fight each other in friendly contests.
Fuel is easy here, with large stations around the town, and there are cafes and restaurants of all kinds. Sion has an airport used by small planes and military aircraft, and you may hear fighter jets in the valley. Summer is hot, with temperatures above thirty degrees, so an early start suits the mountains. Winter can bring fog to the valley floor, while the passes stay in sun.