Throp is a farm name on the edge of Gilsland, in the narrow gap where the River Irthing slips between the northern Pennines and the moors that roll north towards the Scottish border. A small Roman fortlet stood here, close to the Stanegate, the road that ran along the valley before the Wall was built, and it is one of the many features that make up the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage site. Not much remains to see, but the setting is classic Wall country.
Within a short ride you have some of the best Roman remains on the whole frontier. Birdoswald, perched above a meander of the Irthing, has the longest continuous surviving stretch of the Wall, a fort with well-preserved gates and granaries, and a farmhouse built over part of it. Below the fort, at Willowford, the Wall crosses the river, and the remains of the Roman bridge abutment show how the river has shifted since. Poltross Burn milecastle, near Gilsland station, is one of the best preserved, with traces of the steps that led up to the wall walk.
The riding here is quiet and enjoyable. The A69 between Carlisle and Newcastle is the main road, fast and busy, but the B6318, the Military Road, runs parallel to the Wall further north and is a fantastic ride, with long straights, sudden dips and crests and stunning views. It was built in the eighteenth century by General Wade after the Jacobite rising of 1745, partly on top of the Wall itself. Be careful: the road has blind summits and dips that hide oncoming traffic, and sheep wander freely. Minor roads around Gilsland are narrow, steep and twisty.
The Irthing valley is green and wooded, with the river cutting through sandstone gorges. The moors to the north are wild and empty, home to curlews, lapwings and skylarks in spring. In winter, the weather can be harsh, with snow and strong winds.
Haltwhistle, about eight kilometres away, has fuel, shops and cafés. Brampton, about eleven kilometres away, is another small market town with services. Carlisle is the nearest city. The tea rooms at Birdoswald and in Gilsland are popular with walkers and riders alike, and there is nothing better after a cold ride than a pot of tea and a scone with jam and cream.