In a quiet corner of the Ludogorie, the wooded plateau of north-eastern Bulgaria, a grassy mound hides one of the most remarkable tombs in the Balkans. Sveshtari is a Thracian tomb of the Getae, a tribe that lived on both sides of the lower Danube, and it dates from the third century BC. Over the burial chamber, the builders raised a mound, and inside they built a stone vestibule, a corridor and three chambers, decorated with carved and painted figures, the likes of which are not found anywhere else in the Thracian world. UNESCO listed it in 1985.
The most striking feature is the ten female figures in the central chamber, carved in half-relief on the walls, with their arms raised, and holding up the architrave like caryatids. They are crowned with flowers and look like goddesses or priestesses. On the ceiling, painted murals show a woman being welcomed by a horseman, which may represent the dead ruler's wife entering the afterlife, or the goddess greeting the hero. The interior is extremely fragile, so access is limited, with small groups led by a guide and with timing rules that vary by season, so it is wise to check before you go. It is a profoundly peaceful and strange place.
The Ludogorie is gentle riding country, with low hills, beech and oak woods, fields of sunflowers and wheat, and villages with storks on the chimneys. Roads are generally flat or rolling, the surface is mixed, and traffic is light. The name means mad forest, a reference to the dense woods that once covered the area. The nearby Srebarna lake, a wetland on the Danube, is a haven for pelicans and herons, and the Madara Rider, a medieval relief carved in a cliff, lies not far to the east.
Isperih, six kilometres away, is a small town with fuel, shops and cafes, and Zavet is nearby. Summers are hot and dry, with sunflowers at their best in July, and autumn brings the harvest, with grapes and walnuts. Nearby cafes serve Bulgarian yoghurt, grilled meat and a chilled glass of rakia. Carry water, and take time to wander the fields.