The village near the black church is a world of mud, stone and apricot trees. Low houses with flat roofs are built into the slope, with piles of fuel cakes drying against the walls, smoke curling from chimneys in the evening, and the sound of sheep and dogs echoing in the valley. People here live much as they have for generations, growing grain and fruit, herding animals and trading with the markets in the towns below. This corner of West Azerbaijan is a mix of Azeri and Kurdish villages, with Armenian history layered underneath.
Visiting is a matter of manners. A motorcycle is an event, and children and older men will probably gather as soon as you stop. Greet people, accept tea if it is offered, and ask before taking photographs. Hospitality in Iran is a serious matter and can be overwhelming, and a few words of Persian go a long way. Women riders should follow the local dress rules and carry a headscarf.
The land around is high, open and dry, with hills the colour of toast, spring flowers that appear briefly in May, and a wide sky. In summer the days are hot and the nights are cool. In winter the area is cold and snowy, and roads can close. The monastery of Saint Thaddeus is on its hillside not far away, and the village is the human side of the same story: the people who have lived beside the church for centuries, whatever the religion of the day.
The roads leading in are paved but patched, and some stretches are narrow, with sharp curves and drops. Watch for livestock, slow trucks and potholes, and for the occasional unmarked speed bump. Fuel is not available in the village itself, so fill up in Maku or another larger town on the main road, and carry some spare. Mobile coverage can be patchy.
The best times to come are late spring and early autumn, when the air is clear and warm. Bring food and water, and allow plenty of time for conversation. Travel permissions for foreigners in Iran can be complicated, so check them well before you leave.