No road reaches this point. The forest is crossed only by water, and any visit here means leaving the motorcycle behind and taking a boat.
The Sundarbans is home to the Bengal tiger, which has adapted to life in the mangroves, swimming between islands and hunting deer, wild boar and fish. Tigers here have a fearsome reputation, and attacks on honey collectors, woodcutters and fishermen are a real danger. The forest is also home to saltwater crocodiles, river dolphins, spotted deer and hundreds of species of birds. Both the Bangladeshi and Indian parts of the Sundarbans are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and they protect a unique ecosystem that also shields the coast from cyclones and storm surges.
Getting to the edge of the Sundarbans by road is possible. In Bangladesh, the town of Mongla, a port on the Pasur river, and the city of Khulna further north are the usual starting points for boat trips into the forest. The roads in this part of Bangladesh are busy, with buses, trucks, rickshaws and pedestrians, and driving is chaotic by European standards. Floods during the monsoon, from June to September, can make roads impassable, and cyclones can strike in spring and autumn. The best time to visit is the dry winter season, from November to February.
Boat trips into the Sundarbans, often lasting several days, are organised by tour operators in Khulna and Mongla, and permits are required. Fuel and services are available in the towns, but nothing inside the forest. Bengali food is rich and spicy, with fish curries, rice and lentils, and the sweets are famous. Gliding along a quiet creek at dawn, with the mangroves on both sides and the mud printed with the tracks of animals, is an unforgettable experience, even if the tiger stays hidden.