Gostilitsy is a village on the Izhora Upland, west of Ropsha and south of Peterhof, and it is one of those places near St Petersburg where the imperial past hides behind fences and overgrown trees. The estate here is associated with Alexei Razumovsky, the Ukrainian Cossack singer who rose to become the favourite and, by many accounts, the secret husband of Empress Elizabeth in the eighteenth century. The palace and park ensemble that grew up around the manor included a house, a church, ponds and landscaped grounds fed by springs, and it is listed among the monuments of the historic centre of St Petersburg and related groups, a UNESCO site that includes many of the palaces and estates around the city.
The estate passed through several hands after Razumovsky, and like many of the country houses around St Petersburg, it suffered in the twentieth century, especially during the Second World War, when German forces occupied the area during the siege of Leningrad. The front line ran nearby, and the region saw fierce fighting. What survives today is a mix of restored and neglected elements, with the church being a focal point of the village. The springs and ponds of the upland give the area a fresh, green feel.
The riding around Gostilitsy is a pleasant escape from the traffic of St Petersburg. The roads cross the Izhora Upland through forests of birch and pine, fields and small villages, with gentle hills and curves. The road from Gostilitsy toward Ropsha and Kipen is quiet, while the route north to Peterhof descends toward the coast of the Gulf of Finland, with views of the sea. Surfaces vary greatly, from good asphalt to potholed stretches, and spring thaw can leave roads damaged. Watch out for wildlife, pedestrians and drivers who may not expect a motorcycle.
Gostilitsy has basic shops, and fuel is available in larger places such as Kipen, Ropsha or Peterhof, which is around twenty kilometres away and has a full range of services. Peterhof is also home to the grand palace and fountains of Peter the Great, one of the most famous sights in Russia. Stop at the church, walk around the old park and ponds, and enjoy the quiet of a village where history sits lightly among the trees. Then ride to Peterhof for the fountains, if you have time.