Suzhou has been famous for its gardens for centuries, and the Mountain Villa with Embracing Beauty, known in Chinese as Huanxiu Shanzhuang, is one of the nine that UNESCO lists among the classical gardens of the city. It lies in the western part of town, a short way from the old centre, and it is quieter than the more famous gardens on the tourist trail. The name suggests a mountain retreat that holds beauty within it, and the design delivers on that: a pond at the centre, pavilions around it and a large rockery of weathered limestone that is the best-known feature.
The idea behind such gardens is to build a world in miniature. A wall hides the street, a doorway frames a view, a zigzag bridge slows your steps and a window with a pattern of tiles turns a bamboo grove into a picture. The rocks are taken from Lake Tai, nearby, and are chosen for their holes and twists, which suggest mountains and caves. The gardens were built by officials, scholars and merchants who had retired from public life or made their fortunes in silk, and they were places for tea, poetry and conversation with friends.
Suzhou itself is a canal city of more than five million people, with white walls and grey tile roofs, stone bridges and willows. The old moats and canals are still part of daily life. Be aware that riding conditions are quite different from Europe. Motorcycle regulations in Chinese cities are strict, many centres restrict petrol bikes, and traffic includes dense flows of electric scooters, buses and cars, so look into local rules and paperwork well in advance. In practice, visitors usually see the city on foot, by bike or by taxi.
The best times to visit are spring and autumn, when the air is mild, while summers are hot and humid. Early morning is quietest, before the tour groups arrive. Suzhou cuisine leans toward the sweet and light, with dishes such as sweet-and-sour mandarin fish and noodles with a clear broth, and tea houses offer a place to sit with a pot of green tea. Pingjiang Road, a restored canal street, is a nice place for a stroll and a snack in the evening.