On a bare hillside near the border between Iran and Turkey, close to the foot of Mount Ararat, stands a black-and-white church that has survived earthquakes, wars and neglect for most of a thousand years. The Monastery of Saint Thaddeus, known in Iran as Qara Kelisa, the Black Church, is one of the oldest and most revered Armenian churches in the world. It is built of alternating bands of black and white stone, in a way that gives it a striking, almost chequered appearance, and it stands in a high, windy valley of the north-west.
According to tradition, the monastery was founded on the site where the apostle Thaddeus, one of the early missionaries to Armenia, was martyred in the first century. A church has stood here since the early centuries of Christianity, though the present building mostly dates from the fourteenth century, after an earthquake damaged an earlier one, and the dome was rebuilt in the nineteenth century. UNESCO listed the Armenian monastic ensembles of Iran in 2008, and this is the main one. Every July, Armenians from Iran and elsewhere gather here for a pilgrimage with mass, processions and a communal meal, and it is an exceptional moment to visit.
The road to it passes through high, empty country of volcanic hills, grazing land and small villages, with a sense of space and the mountains of eastern Turkey visible in the distance. The nearest towns are Maku, a town in a dramatic rocky gorge, and the small settlements near the border. Roads in the region are generally good main routes, but side roads can be rough, and winter brings heavy snow and bitter cold, closing some of them, so late spring to early autumn is the best time. Be prepared for border-zone checkpoints, and carry your passport and permits at all times.
Fuel and food are available in Maku, and in the small villages along the road you can find simple meals, bread, yoghurt and tea. Dress modestly, especially in the church, and ask before photographing people. The best time to visit is in the early morning, when the light on the black-and-white stone is soft and the hills are quiet, and the place feels as if it has not changed for centuries.