Zone A of the Kvarken is the outer world of islands, where the road gives way to boats. The Kvarken Archipelago is a maze of more than five thousand islands and islets, many of them barely a metre above the water, scattered across the shallow Gulf of Bothnia, and only a few are inhabited. The ones with year-round residents are reached by bridge or ferry, and live by fishing, small farming and, increasingly, by visitors who come for the quiet. The landscape here is slow and subtle, with horizons so low that sky and water seem to be the main features, and trees bent by the wind.
The settlements are tiny and tidy. Replot, the largest island, has a few thousand residents spread out along the roads, with fishing harbours and boathouses, and the sea has always been central to life. Fishing for Baltic herring and perch is still practised, and in the autumn you may see nets hung out to dry. The land is also used for grazing, and in the summer sheep and cows can be seen on the coastal meadows, where wildflowers bloom. Seals bask on the rocks in the sunshine, and white-tailed eagles circle above.
The riding is straightforward. The roads are narrow and quiet, with a good surface, and traffic is very light outside the summer weekends. The bridges and causeways are a pleasure, and the openness gives a feeling of freedom. In the wind, which can be considerable, you will feel the bike pushed about, so ride with a loose grip. The weather can shift quickly, with mist rolling in from the sea or a squall bringing rain, so a waterproof layer is wise. In winter the strait freezes, and ice roads are made for cars, though a motorbike is not suited to them.
Fuel stations and shops are on the mainland, in Vaasa and Korsholm, and there are few on the islands, so start with a full tank and bring food. A small cafe near the harbour may be open in summer, serving coffee, cake and fish soup. The smell of the place is seaweed, pine and diesel from fishing boats, and the sound is gulls and a distant engine. The best light comes late in the day, when the low sun turns the water to copper and the islands to dark shapes.