The Forbidden City is the largest palace complex in the world, and from 1420 to 1912, it was the home of twenty-four emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties. It was built by the Yongle emperor, who moved the capital from Nanjing to Beijing, and who used tens of thousands of craftsmen and hundreds of thousands of labourers to finish it in about fourteen years. It covers about seventy-two hectares, with some nine hundred buildings, surrounded by a moat and a high wall. The name comes from the fact that ordinary people were forbidden to enter without permission, on pain of punishment.
The layout is a lesson in power. A long central axis runs from the Meridian Gate, through courtyards and halls, to the imperial garden at the back, with the great Hall of Supreme Harmony at the heart, where emperors held court and ceremonies. The roof tiles are yellow, the colour of the emperor, and the walls are red, and the decoration is full of dragons and phoenixes. Behind the public halls lie the private quarters, with the small, dark rooms where concubines and eunuchs lived. The last emperor, Puyi, abdicated in 1912 as a child, and lived in the palace until 1924. Since 1925, it has been a museum.
Practical points matter. Tickets must be booked in advance through the official channels, a passport is needed to enter, and the palace is usually closed on Mondays. It gets very crowded, so arriving at opening time is wise. From the top of Jingshan, the hill north of the palace, you get a good view of the golden roofs. The Western Qing Tombs, in Hebei province to the south-west, are the burial grounds of several emperors, and one of the day trips from the city on the ride list.
Riding in Beijing is difficult for visitors. Foreign riders normally cannot bring their own motorcycles or hire them freely, and many restrictions apply in the city centre, so the subway, taxis and bicycles are far more practical. Beijing has fuel and services everywhere, and the food, from roast duck to hand-pulled noodles, is part of the pleasure. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with clear skies and mild temperatures, and summer is hot and humid, while winter is cold and dry.