Wang Xianchen was a retired imperial official who, around 1509, in the Ming dynasty, bought a piece of marshy land in Suzhou and made a garden. He named it after a line in an ancient essay about how a humble man can learn to govern his own small plot, and the name has a modest, ironic ring: the Humble Administrator's Garden is the largest in Suzhou, covering about five hectares, and is regarded as one of the finest in China. It belongs to the group of classical Suzhou gardens that UNESCO inscribed in 1997.
Water is the heart of the design. Pools, streams and lotus ponds cover about three-fifths of the area, and pavilions and covered walkways stand on the edge or on islands, so that you move through a landscape of reflections. A zigzag bridge crosses the water, a hall for viewing lotus faces the central pond, and the surrounding rocks, bamboo and pine trees are arranged like a painting, with views framed by round and hexagonal windows. The effect is of a large country estate shrunk into a city block.
The garden had many owners, passing from the original family to a gambler, then to officials and merchants, and for a time it served as a rebel palace in the nineteenth century. Today it is one of the most visited places in the city, and in peak season, it is crowded, so go early, on a weekday and in spring or autumn. The azaleas in April and the lotus in July are the high points.
Riding is not really part of a visit to Suzhou, since motorcycles are restricted in the city centre, and foreign riders face licensing barriers. The best way to travel is by metro, bus or taxi, and the old centre is compact enough to walk. Fuel and food are no problem, and the city has a rich cuisine, from noodles and dumplings to the sweet, slightly sour flavours of Jiangsu cooking. Bring water and a hat in summer, and allow at least two hours for the garden. Tea is served in a teahouse by the pond, and it is pleasant to sit there for a while.