Berat is called the town of a thousand windows, and one look across the Osum river explains why. The Ottoman-era houses of the Mangalem quarter stack up the slope in white tiers, their upper floors set back so that each window seems to look over the next roof. On the opposite bank the Gorica quarter faces them, linked by a graceful stone bridge, and above them both the castle walls crown a rock, with the long, bare ridge of Mount Tomorr beyond.
What makes Berat special is that the castle is still a living neighbourhood, with families, small churches and narrow lanes inside the walls, rather than an empty ruin. The churches are Byzantine in origin, with a number of them decorated with frescoes. The Onufri Museum, in the former cathedral, is named after a sixteenth-century painter who developed a famous vivid red for his icons. Muslims, Orthodox Christians and, until the twentieth century, a Jewish community lived side by side in the town, and this religious mix helped make it a symbol of coexistence. UNESCO listed the historic centre in 2008.
The ride from Tirana or the coast crosses the flat plain of central Albania, then ascends through low hills with olive groves and vineyards. Roads are mostly good now, but expect trucks, horse carts and the occasional stray dog. Evenings are the best time to see the town, when lights come on in the windows and the river gleams. Summer is hot and dry, and spring and autumn are pleasant, with mist in the mornings. A nearby mountain road leads toward Tomorr, which is a sacred peak for Albanians, with a pilgrimage in August.
Berat is a proper town with fuel stations, restaurants, banks and a good range of guesthouses, and Ura Vajgurore is nearby. Park the bike near the river and walk, because the old streets are cobbled and steep. Try local wine, which has been produced here for centuries, along with raki, and a plate of lamb baked in a clay pot. Leave time to climb to the castle at sunset.