The Great Wall is not one wall but many, built and rebuilt over two thousand years by different dynasties, and the section north-west of Beijing is the one most people picture. The stone and brick wall you see here was largely built by the Ming dynasty from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when a strong frontier was needed against the peoples of the steppe. Watchtowers stand on the crest every few hundred metres, and the wall climbs and falls along the ridges of the Yanshan mountains, with signal towers on the high points that once passed warnings by fire and smoke.
The pass at Juyongguan and the fortified gate at Badaling guard the route that led from the capital to the plateau beyond. Badaling is the most visited part of the wall, reopened to the public in the 1950s and restored, and visitors from all over the world come here. It can be very crowded, especially on public holidays, so arrive early or choose a quieter, less restored section. The steps are steep and uneven, and the wind on the ridge is cold in winter. The hills around are rugged and bare, with scrubby slopes that turn gold in autumn.
Changping, with about 93,000 people some 26 km from here, is the closest town for fuel and food, and Beijing lies beyond it. Riding in China needs preparation: foreign visitors cannot normally ride a motorbike on a home licence, and Beijing in particular has restrictions on motorcycles. Most visitors will reach the wall by train, bus or hired driver, and the main expressway to Badaling is busy with coaches. Check what is possible for your own plans well in advance.
The best times are spring and autumn, when the air is clear and the colours are best, and the early morning, when the light is soft and the crowds have not yet arrived. Winter can be bright and cold, with a dusting of snow on the stone. Above Yanqing, the reservoir at Guanting and the surrounding hills add to the scene. Take water, sun protection and shoes with good grip, and give yourself time to walk away from the main stretch, where the wall runs on into quieter country along the crest.