Inland from Mombasa, where the coastal plain begins to climb towards the dry bush of the interior, small islands of dense forest stand out from the farmland and scrub. These are kayas, the sacred forests of the Mijikenda peoples, and the Duruma kayas belong to one of the nine Mijikenda groups. Together with others along the coast they were inscribed in 2008 as the Sacred Mijikenda Kaya Forests.
The kayas began as fortified villages in clearings deep in the forest, with paths winding through the trees to protect them from raiders. Over time people moved out to farm, but the kayas remained as ritual and burial places, governed by councils of elders who decide who may enter and under what conditions. Cutting trees, taking plants or even entering certain areas is forbidden, which is why these patches of coastal forest survived while the land around them was cleared. They shelter rare plants, birds and butterflies, and they are living religious sites, not parks.
That means a visit has to be arranged with respect. Approach through local elders or a recognised guide, ask before taking photographs and follow the rules you are given, which may include removing shoes or covering certain clothing. Without permission, enjoy the forests from the edges and the roads.
The main artery for anyone on wheels is the Mombasa to Nairobi highway, which passes through Mariakani, sixteen kilometres away. It is heavily used by trucks carrying containers from Mombasa port, and overtaking manoeuvres can be frightening. The smaller roads that branch off towards the kayas are often red murram, dusty in the dry season and slippery after rain. The coast has two rainy seasons, the long rains around April to June and the short rains around November, and the heat and humidity are constant.
Mariakani has fuel and food; Mombasa, with its Old Town, carved doors and the Portuguese Fort Jesus built at the end of the sixteenth century, has everything else. South of the city, the Shimba Hills offer cooler air, forest and elephants, and a good ride for an afternoon. Along the roadside, look for coconut stalls and palm wine sellers; a fresh madafu, coconut water drunk straight from the nut, is the best cure for the coastal heat.