East of Tashkent, the Western Tian Shan rises in a series of ridges, and the Chatkal range is one of the most accessible of them, its snowy peaks visible from the capital on a clear day. The Chatkal State Biosphere Reserve protects a part of this landscape, with forests of juniper, walnut, maple and wild fruit trees, and alpine meadows above, home to Tian Shan brown bears, snow leopards, ibex, wild boar and many birds of prey. The Western Tian Shan, shared by Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, is on the UNESCO list.
The area is rich in wild fruit trees, including apples, apricots, pistachios and walnuts, many of them ancestors of cultivated varieties. In spring, the slopes are covered with wildflowers, including tulips, and in autumn the forests turn gold. Access to the reserve itself is restricted, and permits are needed, but the valleys around the edges offer plenty of walking, and shepherds with flocks on the high pastures are usually happy to point the way.
The road from Tashkent to the Fergana valley, the A373, crosses the Kamchik pass at about 2,270 metres, a spectacular route through the mountains, with tunnels, hairpins and views over the Angren valley. It is a busy road, with trucks, buses and checkpoints, so take care. The pass can be closed in winter due to snow. Nearby, the Chimgan and Beldersay mountain resorts and the Charvak reservoir are popular weekend escapes for Tashkent residents.
Angren, a coal-mining town of over one hundred thousand, and Yangiobod are the nearest larger towns, with fuel and services. Fuel quality and availability in Uzbekistan can vary, and many cars run on gas, so fill up when you can. Try plov, the national rice dish, shashlik, samsa and fresh fruit from roadside stalls. The best times to visit are spring and autumn, when the weather is mild and the colours are at their most vivid.