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The Blocade Ring

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The Blockade Ring stands on the south bank of the Neva, east of Saint Petersburg, close to where the Road of Life began its journey toward Lake Ladoga. It commemorates the siege of Leningrad, which lasted from September 1941 to January 1944, roughly 872 days, and the corridor that kept the city alive. When Shlisselburg fell in September 1941, the city was cut off by land, and the only lifeline ran across Ladoga, by boat in summer and over the ice in winter.

You come here along flat, open roads through marshy forest and birch, passing small settlements like Pavlovo, with Otradnoye as the nearest town of any size, about twenty thousand people and fuel stations. Kirovsk is a bit farther and larger. The terrain is a floodplain: low, wet, and thick with pine and alder, which made it hard to fight in and easy to understand why the front barely moved for years. The Nevsky Pyatachok bridgehead, a tiny strip of land held at terrible cost, lay on this stretch of river.

The riding is straightforward. Expect wide, fast roads shared with lorries, with the odd roadwork and frost heave, and long straights where wind from Ladoga can push a bike sideways. It is not a corner road, but a thoughtful one. Summer evenings are light well past ten, in June barely dark at all, and the mosquitoes in the wet woods are tireless. Winter is cold and grey, with the same low horizon that the defenders knew.

Memorials along the Road of Life are quiet, and many people leave flowers. In January 1943 the Soviet offensive broke the blockade, opening a narrow land corridor along the lake shore, and the full siege ended a year later. Take time here, and nearby at the Oreshek fortress in Shlisselburg, where the Neva leaves the lake. Bring respect: many visitors have family stories bound up with this ground.

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