Just inland from the beach at Altafulla, on the Costa Daurada north of Tarragona, the remains of a grand Roman villa look out over the Mediterranean. This is the Villa dels Munts, one of the finest Roman country houses in Catalonia, built in the first and second centuries AD, with baths, gardens, mosaics and painted walls. It is thought to have belonged to an important citizen of Tarraco, the Roman capital of the province of Hispania Tarraconensis, and it is part of the World Heritage inscription of the Archaeological Ensemble of Tarraco, inscribed in 2000. The villa's setting, on a gentle slope above the sea, makes it easy to see why a wealthy Roman would choose it for a retreat.
Altafulla itself is a charming small town, with a medieval old quarter on a hill crowned by a castle, and a seafront of old fishermen's houses, known as the Botigues de Mar. The nearby castle of Tamarit stands right on the beach on a rocky headland, a romantic sight. Tarragona, about ten kilometres away, has a wealth of Roman remains, including an amphitheatre by the sea, the circus, the forum and the walls, as well as a beautiful medieval cathedral.
The riding here is mostly coastal and suburban, with busy roads and plenty of traffic in summer. The N-340, which follows the route of the Roman Via Augusta along the coast, is heavily used, but inland roads offer better riding. Head north into the hills of the Alt Camp and the Baix Penedès, and the roads wind through vineyards, olive groves and small villages, with curves and gentle climbs. The Prades mountains, further inland, offer some excellent riding, with steep, twisting roads through pine forests. Summer heat can be intense, and spring and autumn are the best seasons.
Altafulla has cafés, restaurants and shops, and Torredembarra, about two and a half kilometres away, has fuel and more services. The local food is Catalan, with seafood, rice dishes, and the calçots, grilled spring onions with romesco sauce, a winter speciality of the region. Visit the villa, walk down to the beach and Tamarit castle, and then explore Altafulla's old town. It is a lovely stretch of coast, with history at every turn.