Where the Tes river comes down from the Mongolian highlands to the Uvs basin, in the far north-west of the country, the land is open, stony and almost without trees. It flows toward Uvs Nuur, the largest lake in Mongolia, a shallow body of salt water that has no outlet, shared with the Russian republic of Tuva, and the whole basin is a UNESCO site, listed in 2003 as one of the best preserved steppe ecosystems in Central Asia. The delta of the river is a wetland where reeds, marsh and pools attract migrating birds, including swans, pelicans, cranes and many ducks.
The basin is a place of contrasts, with snowy mountains, deserts, steppe, tundra and wetland within a few hours of each other, and its animals include snow leopards, ibex, argali sheep and, in the sands, jerboas and gerbils. The Uvs depression is one of the coldest places in Mongolia in winter, with temperatures that fall to forty below, and in summer it can be hot enough to make the salt flats shimmer.
The people are herders of the Dörvöd and other western Mongol groups, who live in felt gers and move their sheep, goats, horses and camels with the seasons. Visitors are usually welcomed with salted milk tea and dried curds, and it is polite to accept, and equally polite to ask before taking photographs. The ancient history includes Scythian burial mounds, stone figures and rock art that stretch back thousands of years, all scattered through the landscape.
The riding here is real adventure. Outside the main road toward Ulaangom, the provincial capital, there is no pavement to speak of, only tracks on gravel and sand, and rivers must be forded. A good map and GPS, enough fuel, spare tubes and food are essential, and it makes sense to travel with a partner, since mobile coverage is patchy. The best time is June to September, when the days are long and warm; the nights can still be cold, and sudden storms are common. Mosquitoes in the delta can be fierce in midsummer.
No town stands close to this point, so take fuel from Ulaangom before setting out and carry reserve. In the evening, as the light falls low across the salt lake, the whole country goes quiet, and the line of the horizon seems very far away. It is a place for those who like silence.