Way out at the western tip of the coalfield, near the villages of Mametz and Norrent-Fontes, Terril 244 marks the place where coal mining reached its limit. Beyond it, the land belongs to farmers, and the next towns, Aire-sur-la-Lys and Saint-Omer, have more to do with canals, marshes and markets than with mines. The heap stands as a solitary landmark in the fields, smaller than the giants further east, and its green-covered slopes blend into the landscape. It is one of the outlying components of the Nord-Pas de Calais Mining Basin listed by UNESCO, a reminder that the coalfield stretched for over a hundred kilometres from the Belgian border to here.
The country to the north is quite different. Saint-Omer, a historic town with a fine cathedral, sits beside the Audomarois marshes, a maze of canals and cultivated plots where farmers once moved vegetables by flat-bottomed boat, and some still do. The marshes are a UNESCO biosphere reserve and a haven for birds. Arques, next to Saint-Omer, is home to one of the world's largest glassworks, and the canal of Neufossé links the Lys with the Aa, part of the old waterway network of Flanders.
The riding west of the mining country is quiet and enjoyable. The roads from Mametz toward the Artois hills climb gently through fields and woods, with some real corners and pleasant views. Northward, the land flattens toward the marshes and the Flanders plain, with long straight roads and canals. Surfaces are generally good, traffic light outside the towns, and the main hazards are tractors and mud in harvest season. Wind across the open fields can be strong, and rain comes often, so a dry day is a gift. Late summer, with the wheat golden and the sky big, is a fine time to ride.
The villages near the terril are small, with few services, so plan to refuel in Aire-sur-la-Lys, about nine kilometres away, or in Saint-Omer. Aire has cafés and restaurants around its grand square, with its Renaissance bailiwick building and belfry. Try a waterzooi, a creamy fish or chicken stew from Flanders, or simply a coffee with a slice of tarte au sucre, a sugar tart of the north. Pause by the terril, then ride into the marshes or the hills, depending on your mood.