Just beyond the village, the coast turns into something stranger and wilder. The most famous spot is the beach known as Yarovoye, or the Dragon's Eggs, where waves have polished the stones into big, smooth, rounded shapes that lie scattered across the shingle like the nests of some sea monster. Further along, a small waterfall drops straight off a cliff into the sea, a rarity anywhere in the world.
The geology is old. This is part of the Baltic Shield, among the oldest rocks on earth, scraped by ice and worn by water, and in the low light of the north it takes on a purple and gold tone. The vegetation is tundra, with dwarf birch, crowberry, mosses and lichens, and in autumn the ground turns red and bronze. Seabirds nest on the cliffs, including kittiwakes and guillemots, and with luck you can spot seals offshore. Whales sometimes pass at a distance.
Expect gravel, sand and rock, with sudden puddles and soft patches after rain, and be prepared to turn back if conditions look bad. Wind is relentless, and the sea can throw spray over the lower parts. Fog rolls in without warning, and distances are hard to judge. Respect the cliffs. The edges are unstable, and waves can be larger than they look.
Seasons shape everything. Summer, from late June to August, gives midnight sun and mild weather, with temperatures around ten to fifteen degrees, and mosquitoes inland. September brings the first aurora, and crisp, colourful tundra. Winter is dark, with deep snow, extreme cold and wind, and the road is a serious expedition.
For fuel, carry enough from Murmansk, since the village has little. A flask of tea and something to eat is a good idea, because the wind chills you quickly. Cafés in Teriberka, about a kilometre and a bit away, can warm you up afterward. Come in the evening, when the low sun lights the stones, and the sea is the colour of slate.