Look up from the streets of Teresópolis and you will see the Dedo de Deus, the Finger of God, a granite spire that points at the sky from the ridge above town. It is the emblem of the Serra dos Órgãos, a range whose jagged peaks reminded the Portuguese of organ pipes, and the city sits right beside the national park that protects it. Altitude is around 900 metres, so evenings are cool, and in winter you may need a jacket.
The city grew in the nineteenth century as a mountain retreat for Rio's wealthy and the imperial family, and was named for the empress Teresa Cristina. Today it is a busy place of more than a hundred and twenty thousand people, with a mix of old villas, university buildings and shopping streets, and is also the training base of Brazil's national football team, which has a centre here. The Serra dos Órgãos National Park is one of the oldest in the country, with trails to viewpoints, waterfalls and the long climb to the summit of the Pedra do Sino, the highest point in the range.
On the bike, the road from Petrópolis through Itaipava is a favourite weekend run, with gentle climbs and drops between ridges, small valleys full of nurseries and flower farms, and bends that suit a relaxed pace. From Teresópolis, the road toward Rio drops off the escarpment in a spectacular descent through forest, with tight bends, heavy lorries and fog that sometimes covers the upper part, so be cautious. Sunday evening traffic going back toward the coast is slow.
Fuel and services are plentiful, since São Pedro is practically joined to the city, and Guapimirim, a short ride downhill, is another town to rely on. The city is known for its restaurants, with trout dishes and mountain-style food, and the fruit and vegetable markets sell produce from the hills. Early morning is the best time for a ride or walk, when the peaks are clear before clouds build in the afternoon. Bring a light waterproof, as showers arrive suddenly, and keep an eye on the weather forecast if you plan to go into the park.