Cuencamé is a small town in the semi-desert of eastern Durango, on the old Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, and it is known throughout northern Mexico for its devotion to the Cristo de Mapimí, a crucifix that is venerated in a sanctuary in the town. The image, according to tradition, was brought here in the colonial period after miracles attributed to it, and each year pilgrims arrive from across the region to pray and give thanks. The town's temples, including the parish church and the sanctuary, are part of the UNESCO listing of the Camino Real. They are simple, solid buildings, with thick walls designed to resist the heat, and their interiors are filled with offerings, candles and the quiet murmur of prayer.
The town is small, quiet and traditional, a place where life follows the rhythm of the seasons and the religious calendar. The plaza, shaded by trees, is the centre of social life in the evenings, when families gather and vendors sell snacks and ice cream.
The landscape around Cuencamé is the northern semi-desert, a vast expanse of creosote bush, mesquite, cacti and yucca, with distant ranges of bare mountains. The colours change with the light, from pale yellow at noon to deep red at sunset, and the sky is enormous. The Durango desert has been used as a backdrop for many Hollywood Westerns, and it is easy to see why.
The riding is long and straight. The main highway between Torreón and Durango passes near Cuencamé, crossing the desert with long straights and few curves, and it is used by trucks. Wind can be strong, and dust storms are possible in spring. The heat in summer is intense, and the distances between towns are long, so plan fuel and water carefully. The surface is generally good on the main highways but poorer on smaller roads. Livestock may wander onto the road, especially at night.
Cuencamé has fuel, small restaurants and shops. Try the gorditas, filled with stews, and the local cheese. Torreón, to the east, and the city of Durango, to the west, are larger towns with all services. The city of Durango has a fine colonial centre and a film museum dedicated to the many Westerns shot in the state. Check the current travel advice for Durango before you go, and ride in daylight.