In the green valleys south of Mexico City, on the slopes below Popocatépetl, sixteenth-century friars built a chain of fortress-like monasteries, and the church and former convent of San Mateo at Atlatlahucan is one of them. The Augustinians arrived in the 1530s, after the Spanish conquest, and set about converting the local Nahua population, building enormous, thick-walled churches with open-air chapels where crowds could attend mass in the courtyard. The group of fourteen early monasteries on the slopes of the volcano was listed by UNESCO in 1994, and the architecture is a rare sight: plain, defensive on the outside, but inside the cloister are murals painted in black and white by indigenous artists under the friars' direction.
What you see at Atlatlahucan is a massive stone church with a simple facade, buttresses, crenellations and a square bell tower. The cloister, with its arched walkways, has faded frescoes showing saints and Augustinian emblems, and the details reveal a blending of European and Mesoamerican styles. The open chapel in front is a reminder that the first Christians here worshipped in the open air, as they had done for their old gods. The church is still in use, and visitors should be respectful during services.
The town itself, with nearly eight thousand people, is known for its carnival, when dancers called chinelos, in feathered hats and velvet robes with beards, hop through the streets to music. The countryside around is farmland and low hills, with sugarcane, corn, tomatoes and marigolds, and in the distance rises the white cone of Popocatépetl, an active volcano that sometimes puffs steam and ash.
Riding in Morelos is relaxed, with warm weather, light traffic on the quiet roads, and plenty of curves between small towns. The main roads are generally in fair shape, though potholes, speed bumps called topes, and livestock on the road call for attention. Atlatlahucan has fuel and small shops, but for larger supermarkets and services, Cuautla, a short ride south, is the usual place to go. Ash from the volcano can make roads slippery after an eruption.
The best season is November to April, when the air is dry, and the volcano is more often visible. Try a tlacoyo, a stuffed corn cake, from a market stall, and a cold drink of tepache.